I might as well start the journal of our vacation trip with one of the most dramatic locations on the planet: Death Valley. The longest, hottest summer I ever spent was our day in that place! I had seen the desert before as a young child, but it didn't have the impact on me then as it does now with an adult perspective. What a place!
We knew we had entered the Mojave Desert when the Joshua trees showed up and the land became barren of anything other than the most hardy of plants. Joshua trees aren't trees at all. They are little succulent plants that rise up a couple of feet and dot the landscape in distant places. We could also tell as we watched the outside temperature sensor on Megan's vehicle begin to rise...and rise...and rise. We had experienced 100 degrees...and 101 and 102...west of the desert. In Death Valley, however, we were incredulous as we watched the gauge rise to 120 degrees. (I would say it was 120 "in the shade", but in DV, there IS no shade!) We all also watched the engine temperature gauge inside the car. On several occasions, the needle got dangerously close to the red, at which point, Meg turned off the air conditioning and opened the windows until the engine could cool enough to keep us from worrying too much. On the roads, there would be signs that said, "Next services, 63 miles." What that meant was that it would be 63 miles to any sign of civilization...gas, water, buildings...and not many of those. Megan and Denis were conscientious about keeping the gas tank full, so--barring any mechanical breakdown--we were not at risk of doing something stupid like being stuck on a roadside with nothing (and I do mean NOTHING) in site for miles and miles. Still, the potential was there. We had lots of water in the vehicle, and everyone had bucket hats to protect from the sun...but there was no respite from the heat. No place we stopped during the entire day had air conditioning that could keep up with the relentless outdoor temperatures, including the minivan.
Let me talk about the heat for a second. First of all, I'm not exaggerating about the temperature at all. We recorded 120 on two devices made to gauge the temp. Also, I reiterate that there was no shade anywhere. We couldn't park in it or stand in it because there wasn't any. None. There was wind and lots of it, but it wasn't cooling. It was hot wind. I don't remember perspiring at all. I believe that the wind took the moisture out of our skin before it even had a chance to pop to the surface! Ryan and Denis poured some water on the ground and watched as the puddle was completely evaporated in less than a minute. None of us had ever experienced heat like this before. It was horrible in an awesome way. How could we have come out of the Sierra where it was naturally air conditioned with snow still on the ground and beautiful waterfalls everywhere due to snow melt--where one of the mountain passes had only been opened just a few days before due to snow--to this desolate place, in only a few hours of travel? All I could think of was what a tragic surprise it must have been to early pioneers who happened into this valley not knowing what they were about to endure. There was no water and no vegetation that could be considered fodder for pack animals. No wildlife beyond the most adaptable of organisms can survive in Death Valley. What an amazing place Death Valley is!
We stopped at an overlook fairly early in the day, called Padre Crowley Point where a canyon overlooks a big valley. Denis took pictures. The children looked around. Meg and I had our backs to the canyon, when I became aware that I was hearing an airplane. It seemed so out of place! Meg and I turned to locate the source of the sound, when up out of the canyon roared a military fighter jet! We never saw it enter the canyon. Never heard it until it was right there! It gave us goosebumps! We watched as it went up and circled around and moved off. Obviously, it was on some sort of training flight...and I thought, "How convenient that it is practicing over the desert! If it crashes, it will hit NOTHING." We really wanted the jet to come back and thrill us again, but it didn't.
Just before leaving the overlook, we were all at the railing that kept us from falling into the canyon--maybe 75 feet below. Robin was to my left...then me, then Megan, Denis, and Ryan...all looking at the landscape before getting ready to head out. Then, suddenly, we became aware that Robin was in FRONT of us. ROBIN WAS ON THE OTHER SIDE OF THE RAIL, ON MERE INCHES OF GROUND BEFORE IT DROPPED OFF INTO THE CANYON!!!!! ACK!! The dear child had seen something on the other side of the rail that she wanted to pick up and had just taken it upon herself to fetch it, totally unaware of the potential danger she was in. We quickly got her back to the safe side of the railing, but it was a brief moment of panic for the adults. Whew! I had to chuckle at Denis. His comment was, "This is something Megan worried and worried about before the trip, and I assured her that it wouldn't occur...but then, the FIRST CRACK IN THE GROUND we come to, this happens..." 'Tis one of the first lessons of parenthood, dear son-in-law: things can happen in the blink of an eye because kids are slick!
In less than a day, we had seen Mt. Whitney (the highest peak in the lower 48 states) and the Badwater area of DV (the lowest point in the lower 48). We left the vehicle only a few times--at Stovepipe Wells, the Ranger Station, Badwater...and maybe one or two others--but by mid-afternoon, we were done with the wonder of the desert in search of relief from the heat. Furnace Creek is a resort in the desert. They have a pool--and they allow non-guests to pay to use it. We had our bathing suits handy in the car, but no towels. (Towels were unimportant since we were quite certain that the hot wind would have us dried off before we even needed to worry about it.) The water was warm, and the deep end of the pool was in the shade of a wall, so that's where we stayed. All five of us. It was the only time on the entire trip that all of us were in a pool at the same time...and the only time that it seemed so necessary!
When we got out of the pool, I went to the women's shower room to get dressed. There were men in there! They were showering with their families, and the wind outside was causing the shower curtains to billow out. What to do? This is something that we discovered about the Great American West. It was full of tourists from other countries...and apparently the European tradition is different from ours. I'm not sure WHY these men decided to be in the women's room, but it was a bit unsettling to realize that there was no place for me to dress unless I went into one of the toilet stalls--which I did. Had to drop my clothing onto the floor of a toilet stall (which I hate to do) just to get dressed in privacy. As it happens, this was not the last time we would experience the European-men-in-the-women's-restroom problem...
Dinner was in a cafe' on the Furnace Creek grounds. We got hydrated and refreshed before heading out to find our lodging for the night at Death Valley Junction. The motel that night was at the Amargosa Opera House--probably built in the 1920s during the old 20-mule-team borax days. We arrived at about 9:3o PM, but the office was closed up. What to do?? To our surprise, there was an envelope on the office door with "Shchepetov" written on it. Our room key! (I thanked the innkeeper the next morning for that!) The room was big and old. No TV. No phone. Peeling paint. An aging window air conditioner that could barely cool the room. But it was an historic place and neat in its own sort of way. The fan that we brought saved us from a sleepless night in the heat, and we were off to our next adventure the next day.
Death Valley wasn't the most beautiful place that we saw nor the most exciting, but I will never forget it because of the shere starkness of the conditions. People actually choose to live there! Amazing!